I’ve always loved designing and making jackets whether it be a bomber, casual or tailored jacket. Back in the day as a fashion student, I use to make lots of jackets in leather, corduroy, wool, cotton and silk. I was always in fabric shops, collecting samples, experimenting with colours, fabrics, trims and creating toiles (some of them unsuccessful).
Fast forward to today I created this classic single-breasted jacket with a twist that I love! I’m tinkering if I should also make a drop waist slim fit trouser to accompany my jacket, let’s see how I get on.
The wool pinstripe fabric I’m using for this jacket has stretch across the width. I always crutch up fabric in the palm of my hand for a couple of minutes just to see how much it creases. This fabric I adore not only does it hold it’s shaping it presses up really crisp. So in order to give this jacket even more of a crisp sharp look, first I’m going to blocked fuse the whole body and sleeves with light weight fusing which also has stretch across the width using a press cloth.
Choose your lining to match your fabric or use a contrast lining. The lining I’m using is acetate and taffeta with 10% stretch across the width, swan stretch thread and shoulder pads.
First off design your jacket, download your jacket block pattern here, decide on the fit and finish length of your jacket. I’m working on the left side of the garment stand. Trace off the left front, right back jacket block (eliminate the waist darts) and left sleeve block pattern onto spot & cross pattern paper. Remember to add your finished length. Our jacket block pattern has medium wearing ease so you can wear a shirt underneath.
The back jacket with additional width reduction and shaping.
To create a stretch block pattern for this jacket style reduce (fold out) the front & back block width (the total depends on fit required). (Note that your new block pattern may require additionally width reduction and shaping, this will be done on your garment stand or model).
Raise the jacket shoulder to accommodate shoulder pads (optional), add the button stand, collar break line, mark on the roll collar, fish dart, hem allowance, add your seam allowances. Block fuse your fabric using a press cloth and cut out in toiling fabric. (Make sure to use toiling fabric that is of the same weight as your final fabric).
If you are using fabric with a pattern ie: pinstripe you’ll need to match the stripes, pin in place and cut out your pattern pieces.
Place the front jacket on the stand and secure with pins. Place the back jacket on the stand and secure with pins. Pin down the centre front to the CF seam on the stand. Pin out the bust dart and create a curved seam from the bust point down towards the lower hip line (Tip: use styling tape to mark the position of your curved seam).
I’ve incorporated a pocket in the curve seam (optional). Make sure the front curve seam flows nicely towards the side seam and beyond.
Pin down the centre back seam to the CB seam on the stand. Using your pins create a seam from directly below the back shoulder dart down towards the hemline.
I’ve created the sleeve as a two piece with a vent on the sleeve hem.
Stand back from the garment stand and check the front and back seams you’ve created, check the collar roll and sleeve pitch re-adjust if necessary.
Mark in your seam lines using tailors chalk either on the stand or place the toile on your cutting table, remove pins and lay the front and back toile flat and transfer toile onto a fresh sheet of spot & cross pattern paper. True your pattern pieces, add seam allowance, pattern information cut out the pattern and sew the toile together.
Fit the toile on the stand, adjust if necessary on the stand with pins. Mark off with tailors chalk and transfer toile adjustments to your pattern.
Pinstripe jacket with lining.
Are you creating a jacket or clothing collection?
You might also love our digital block pattern collection size 6-20 HERE
All digital block patterns are drafted separately for you to create your styles
• Professional ready-to-use
• For fashion designers, pattern makers and sewers.
• Arranged onto A4 sized pages for you to print out on economical A4 printers
• Each set includes a size chart, block piece information and instructions to assemble together
• All the block patterns are NETT (without seam allowances or turnings)
• Wearing ease is included in each block pattern
What pattern or sewing projects are you working on? Tell us in the comments below we’d love to see.